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From: $109.00Original price was: $109.00.$80.00Current price is: $80.00.
A complete kit is required to make this color. However, if you already have some of these items you don’t have to purchase each one. Simply select the appropriate response in the drop down menu for each.
UreChem offers rich colors in thousands of options
UreChem paint is Made in The USA
No other paint brand offers a better value.
About UreChem®
UreChem Paints is a family owned business that designs, tests, and makes our own brand of automotive paint right here in the in USA. Our unique manufacturing and sales approach allows us to make a great product and sell it for a really low price.Since our founding in 2008, UreChem paint has been used on well over 100,000 cars, trucks, motorcycles, boats and other vehicles.Today, our mission continues to make a high quality automotive paint and sell it at a really low price.
Never Diluted, Never Re-Labeled
There has been a trend in recent years of some companies buying automotive paint from over-seas or even domestically and re-labeling it as their own.Our product is not a re-labeled product from who knows where.We actually make it in our own factory which means we are not at the mercy of another companies’ control of quality and pricing.Also, we never play tricks by selling pre-reduced or diluted paint to make the product appear less expensive.
This appears to be a very good product. However, there was a concern regarding the reactivity of UreChem to other brands of primer. I found that allowing my Speedokote Epoxy primer and High-Build Urethane primer to completely “outgas” or dry for a day or so kept it from having any reactions, and the base paint went on smoothly. One should not expect one-day paint jobs in this situation. What I did not like was the failure to include LVLP gun settings in the TDS. I also did not like the lack of an activator as part of the base mix. The explanation, as I was told, that it would slow drying appears to fly in the face of common experience where activator hardened paint faster. The recommendation of up to 10% activator did not seem to equate with 2 oz/qt found in the TDS. Finally, the application of base and mid should be explained completely separately. I found no way to use the same settings and technique in applying the mid as I did the base. The mid is where very precise technique is required, and the distance to surface must be different, with differing gun settings as well. I do not recommend anything with a mid coat for newbies.
Many states, counties, and/or municipalities have regulations regarding the application of low volatile organic compound (VOC) paint. The states shown in red below currently require the purchase of low VOC paint, but it there are other areas with regulations.
Before ordering, please check your local regulations. If you need more information concerning low VOC products, please email us at [email protected].
What is the difference between metallic paint and pearl paint?
The sparkling agent in pearl paint is a pearl pigment which is essentially a mica, aluminum oxide, or glass flake that has been coated with metal oxides to make a colored sparkle. Pearl paints tend to have more richness and depth than metallic paints in some colors.
Do I have to add the pearl?
No. Our pearl paints come with he pearl already properly wetted and dispersed into the paint. All you have to do it reduce and/or activate the paint to apply and achieve the pearl effect.
What is the difference between 2 stage and 3 stage pearl paint?
Two stage pearl paint is where one color is applied and cleared to achieve the pearl effect. A 3 stage pearl requires three different product layers: A base layer, a transparent midcoat layer, and a protective clear coat.
How much paint do I need?
The amount of paint you will need depends on a lot of factors including the size of the vehicle you are painting, how much of the vehicle you are painting, which color you use, your spray equipment, and the technique and skill of your painter.
Generally speaking, a gallon kit of paint is enough for the outside and jambs of a small to medium sized vehicle. Larger vehicles (or if you are painting more than the outside and jambs) will require more paint.
Quart kits are generally enough paint for motorcycles and golf carts. However, if you have a large motorcycle or golf cart with a lot of pieces you might need an additional quart.
Which clear should I use?
We highly recommend the UC-210 UreChem HS Glamour clear. The UC-210 has been proven to offer more UV protection than most clears on the market which extends the life of your finish. Our 2K MS clear is a good choice in colder weather, or when you need a faster drying product.
Which activator and reducer should I use?
The activator and reducer to select depends on the size of the vehicle or parts you are painting, the temperature, and your air movement.
Generally speaking, when painting 30%+ of a car's surface area at once you'll want medium or "standard" reducer and activator as it is called for vehicle surface temps up to 85F. For temperatures above 85F, slow is the better choice. Generally fast is only recommended for smaller areas in cooler temps.
Questions? Email or Call An Expert
Questions about which paint is right for your project? With several painters and a master chemist on staff, we can answer your technical questions and help you find the right coating for your project.
Automotive paints can be hazardous to your health, and as such, require specialized equipment and training to use properly and safely. These products are designed for use by professionally trained autobody painters with proper personal protective equipment (PPE) in an approved spray booth and are not recommended for at home or "do it yourself" type applications.
WARNING: This product contains a chemical known to the State of California to cause cancer.
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This appears to be a very good product. However, there was a concern regarding the reactivity of UreChem to other brands of primer. I found that allowing my Speedokote Epoxy primer and High-Build Urethane primer to completely “outgas” or dry for a day or so kept it from having any reactions, and the base paint went on smoothly. One should not expect one-day paint jobs in this situation. What I did not like was the failure to include LVLP gun settings in the TDS. I also did not like the lack of an activator as part of the base mix. The explanation, as I was told, that it would slow drying appears to fly in the face of common experience where activator hardened paint faster. The recommendation of up to 10% activator did not seem to equate with 2 oz/qt found in the TDS. Finally, the application of base and mid should be explained completely separately. I found no way to use the same settings and technique in applying the mid as I did the base. The mid is where very precise technique is required, and the distance to surface must be different, with differing gun settings as well. I do not recommend anything with a mid coat for newbies.